Day 2 of Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012

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By: Madhura Sansare & Vipul Goyal, Vogue+ Bureau, Mumbai | 4th Aug, 2012

With white as her backdrop and black doodle sketches high lighting her garments, AartiVijay Gupta created a black and white fantasy at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012 called “I Love Ma Doodle Book”.

The pure white line-up of Dupion and tabby silk, along with luxurious crepe was used imaginatively for shift dresses with sketches of faces and figure blocks. Panelled jackets with dramatic godets, a jumpsuit, constructed jacket with black figures and flowing pants had a feminine look.

The clever play of black and white also came alive for sharply cut jackets with wide notched lapels, slender long sleeve sheaths cinched with black Obe style belts, tunics, slender pants, kimono style covers some with strategically placed tucks or pleats and asymmetric bias cut hems. The final three saris brought in colour with the doodles featuring colour wheels or shade cards print and were worn with floppy blouses.

The two men’s wear entries followed the same print story for the jacket with peaked lapels, double vents and the smart bundgala coat. It was a stylish versatile line with a distinct identity from Aartivijay Gupta, which will appeal to the fashion conscious buyers.

Inspired by the many survivors on the globe, Nikhil Thampi celebrated their victory with his unusually titled collection “Survivors” at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012.

The garments were a study of balanced construction, as styled tops and cholis, which floated down the ramp, were teamed with crushed silk draped maxi skirts. Embellishments were metallic, as chains, plates and ‘salli’ work were seen creatively on the garments. The silhouettes were fluid and flared with earthy tones like black, green, brown and rust playing a rustic melody. Fabrics that brought the theme to life moved from velvets or suede to ombré silk and cotton.

Striking entries were the sheer black kurta, the side belted jacket and the black velvet sherwani with a slit back all created for the adventurous man. Crinkle silk was used lavishly for the fluid skirts, while velvet appeared for stylish one shoulder togas, draped gowns, two tone cholis and long lean kurtas.

An interesting innovation was the chain mail halter corset held together with leather straps. Here was a collection that will appeal to the strong daring women and men of the 21st century, as Nikhil Thampi dresses them in his “Survivor” creations.

Keeping in mind the modern global women, Sidharta Aryan’s Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012 collection called “Wanderlust” was a perfect prét offering. Bringing in vintage Indian touches for a luxurious feminine line, Sidharta showed a range of versatile creations that can progress from day to evening and then even festive wear. With prints as the focal point, the inspirations were from Indian art and architecture which added to the creative style of the garments.

The images ranged from paintings of Rajasthan, Mughal Jharoka, temple jewellery of the South, blue prints of the Chalukya dynasty, Victorian influences, and streets of Lucknow, which were juxtaposed cleverly on fluid fabrics for the garments.

Dividing the collection into separates and festive styles, Sidharta’s versions of the shirt dresses, jackets, pretty dresses for day wear and the lehengas, anarkalis and saris for bridal and festive clothing had a marked contemporary touch with four prints versions. With faux georgette, silk, crepe, jersey and lace, the designer ensured that the garments were all ‘wash and wear’ for the convenience of the jet setting Indian woman.

It was slinky women’s wear as drop waist dresses, cropped jackets, ghagras, skirts, and the scooped back dresses glided down the ramp. The solitary sari matched the theme with its colours and prints and the three lehenga sets had a marked western touch with body hugging panelled silhouettes which were teamed with peplum tops or lace jackets

With immaculate construction and intricate detailing, Sidharta Aryan ensured that the “Wanderlust” look will appeal to an international clientele.

Giving his collection an unconventional title “Miss Pac-in District”, Yogesh Chaudhary recreated the fashion of the American Retro era bringing in hints of the 20’s, 50’s and 80’s fashion moments at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012.

Going for a colour palette starting with cherry red, then onto canary yellow and electric blue, Yogesh’s prints were inspired by the Ms Pac-man game. Block printing, beadwork, digital printing and knitted jacquards highlighted the wonderful line of separates that included skirts, Tees, trousers, jackets, blouses, trenches, saris and even swim wear. Adding on a range of knitted dresses and cardigans, Yogesh ensured that the silhouettes were lean, sexy but trendy. A hint of gold gotta work gave interesting touches to the sari made from the Maheshwari fabric which was given unconventional treatment.

The Pac man print appeared in varied colours and added a quirky touch to the jumpsuits and dresses. Giving a new twist to the sari and choli combo, Yogesh had three entries with two tone prints and teamed them with comfy loose blouson style jersey blouses. The overall look represented relaxed fun wear, which had large doses of innovative styling.

Bringing forth a clever mix of Indian and western embellishments, inspirations and retro prints, Yogesh Chaudhary created his distinct individualistic trend for the Winter/Festive 2012 season.

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